Sunday, August 4, 2013

Soufflé aux Crevettes, Asperges au Naturel, and Tomates à la Provençale

I was home visiting my parents and sister this weekend in Indiana and of course wanted to share my French cooking journey with them. My mom mentioned that she had recently seen a rerun on TV of Juila Child making soufflé and suggested that as a possibility for our dinner. Of course, my parents’ well-equipped kitchen has several soufflé molds, a missing tool that has prevented me from making any molded dish so far this summer. So soufflé it would be!

The authors of MAFC give extensive directions and illustrations for the delicate processes of whipping, folding, and baking a variety of soufflés. I chose a shrimp variation because it was on hand. The diced shrimp was first cooked in butter and simmered for a moment in vermouth. The shellfish was set aside while the main mixture was made. I cooked flour in butter for a few minutes and then beat in boiling milk and seasoning. Then four egg yolks were beaten in one by one. Then, the authors direct stiffly beaten egg yolks to be folded slowly into the yolk mixture along with grated Swiss cheese. The mold had been prepared with butter and cheese sprinkled inside. The egg mixture was layered with the shrimp, sprinkled with cheese, and baked for 30 minutes. The soufflé breathed spectacularly high above the mold, but unfortunately collapsed before I was able to take the picture as soufflés are apt to do.




The main dish was accompanied by a sauce mousseline sabayon, which is very similar to hollandaise. The recipe called for fish liquor but I could not find any at the local store so substituted vegetable stock. It was simply a whipped combination of egg yolks, whipping cream, stock, butter, and seasoning. You can see the sauce below over the soufflé in the final plated images. The soufflé was a little on the dry side and denser than I expected so the sauce, while a little more bland than I had hoped, helped make it more palatable.

Souffle drizzled with sauce
To accompany the soufflé, I chose two vegetables, one more tedious than the other. The authors suggest that peeled and boiled asparagus in the French method is the best. So, even though the asparagus I bought was rather thin, I peeled every stalk – a process that took an hour. The stalks were the bundled together and boiled in a pot of salted water for about 15 minutes. They were indeed very delicate and tender, but we all agreed they were not quite worth the effort.
 
Look at that beautifully peeled asparagus!
Finally, my parents’ luscious home-grown tomatoes were too tempting not to include in some way. In fact, they had one very large tomato that, when quartered, served the four of us. I chose the Provençale recipe as a bold contrast to the delicate soufflé. The recipe is a simple process of removing the seeds and juice from halves (or in our case quarters) and stuffing with herbs and breadcrumbs. I was able to use fresh basil, parsley, and thyme from my mom’s garden along with garlic, green onion, and salt and pepper. These herbs where mixed with olive oil and some baguette crumbs, stuffed in the tomatoes and roasted in oil for about 15 minutes. This vegetable was a wonderful summer accompaniment to the rest of the meal. As an avid tomato eater, I will certainly make this dish again.
 
Close-up of the tomato

Baguette
This meal was quite enjoyable with my family on our back porch on a pleasant summer evening. We had pinot grigio paired with the fish and ate the rest of the baguette. Unfortunately, all photographs were taken in the kitchen under artificial light and many of them were blurry as I was in a bit of a hurry. Better luck next week!

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